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Archive for the ‘Peasant Food’ Category

Corned beef  is actually not all that Irish-y. Well I guess it is in the United States and Canada today but it really was not a big part of the Irish diet until they migrated to the U.S. in the 18th century. Back in the day, being poor and frugal, the Irish did not eat a lot of beef. Cows were saved for the milk. Only old cows that didn’t produce anymore were used to brine and make corned beef or other beef dishes. Typically, Irish folks ate potatoes, lamb and mutton, cabbage, bacon, stews, soda bread, rhubarb etc. I am half Vietnamese and half Irish. The BF has an Irish passport. We know these things.

Tonight I am going to go old school with it. I am using a bunch of bits and pieces to make a few dishes that will last through Friday. But I am going to put a little gourmet twist on some things. Rustic but a bit more inspired. Lamb braised in McSorely’s Irish Black Lager served over mashed potatoes w/ a side of peas and glazed carrots. Rhubarb and apple crisp for dessert.

Here’s my lamb recipe. Dessert recipe and pics to come later. Happy St. Patrick’s Day!

Braised Lamb in McSorley’s Irish Black Lager

2 lb of Lamb stew meat on the bone OR three to four lamb shanks

2 medium onions chopped

5 cloves of minced garlic

1/2 cup carrots chopped fine

1 cup celery chopped fine

2 sprigs of rosemary

2 bottles of dark beer

unsalted butter/olive oil for braising + *1 tbs unsalted butter for finishing

salt and pepper to taste

Make sure lamb is at room temperature, pat dry, then lightly  salt and pepper each piece. In a heavy bottomed pan or dutch oven melt a mixture of butter and olive oil (enough to coat pan). Working in batches brown the lamb meat. Add carrots, celery, onion, garlic, 1 sprig of rosemary, and salt. Cover w/ water then add one bottle of beer. Cover and cook over low heat for an hour. After an hour add the second bottle of beer and 1 more sprig of rosemary. Cook for another hour and a half or until meat is tender. * strain sauce/broth then cook sliced onions in it until tender and add butter if you want a more restaurant type feel or presentation.

Serve over (red) mashed potatoes!

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Pies -n-Thighs has reopened at South 4th and Driggs on the SE corner. As of today, they ARE open for business. No rumor. It’s legit!

Here is a sneak peak from the soft launch/friends and family shindig.

* a special thanks to SA and JB for the covert picture action and container of food.

Now step away from the computer and go get your chicken on!

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I spent over a year walking by An Choi and did not bother to give it a chance. Ever. Walked by a million times. Laughed at the thought of paying over $4 even $5 for a banh mi. Scoffed as I would stroll right by on my way to snag a solid banh mi right down the street.

Figured oh they are probably slinging the same garbage Baoguette or Paris Sandwich does. Sorry to say this, because they are all very nice people, but those places offer some pretty repulsive food. I have spit out their sandwiches each and every time. Literally. It’s gross. As an open minded food person this says a lot. I do not judge those who eat it and enjoy. To each their own. However, I do know for a fact: These people are missing out on many far better options all over New York. Those places are the Vietnamese equivalent of Subway or a Dunkin Doughnuts.

Well, it turns out the last laugh was on me. The banh mi at An Choi is the closest in flavor to that of my childhood. I had to doctor it up a bit with a sweet and spicy chili sauce and more jalapenos. There is no char siu on the roasted pork and it needed a bit of sweetness for proper balance. The classic banh mi stand outs from many others around town because of the pate, roasted pork, no overuse of char siu, a perfect balance of flavors, and ratio of meats. Yeah, it could use a bit more pickling of the carrots. Yes, it’s smaller than most banh mi. Don’t care. I have yearned for the banh mi of my youth for too long, I can accept a few minor things.

Eyeballing and smelling the bowls of pho other patrons were digging into… hmmm it was looking pretty on point. Taking the BF this weekend. This place definitely warrants a second and third visit. Looking forward to exploring the menu at length. Really great service and atmosphere too. Both the pork belly and spicy meatball banh mi has my boyfriend’s name written all over it.

The banh mi is served with shrimp chips. It’s a clever touch. I am in love.

An Choi in the LES

85 Orchard Street

New York, N.Y. 10002 [map]

Tel: (212) 226 3700

Open 7 days a week.
Noon – 10:30pm.
Delivery: Noon – 10:00pm

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I was hoping Xe Lau would satisfy Mama-san.

Considering she was only a few spoon fulls shy of eating an ENTIRE BOWL OF PHO I would say so! Who does that? Plus, she’s only like 5ft tall and definitely under a hundred pounds. Where does it all go?

We started with crispy vegetarian spring rolls. Yum, I want some now!

Giant bowls of Pho and a round of Vietnamese coffees….

The lobster special. A nice blend of ginger, onion, green pepper, a touch of fish sauce, and black pepper. A little sweet, a lot savory. And SO good…

This place should be on the radar of all Pho fans. Pretty good stuff. We had EXCELLENT service too. It’s also a little more roomy than most Asian spots downtown. You won’t have to maneuver between tightly packed tables nor will you be shoved into a tiny corner with communal tables. Average prices for Pho are $5.50 to $6.

Xe Lau

86 Mulberry St (bt Bayard & Walker)

(212) 577-8887

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I love a good rillette. It’s a soft spread that typically calls for the less desirable parts and bits of pork or meat and is prepared like a confit. Meat with lots of fat added to it and cooked slow to enhance the flavor and preserve it. Think confit meets poor mans pate and falling under the category of charcuterie.  In New York it’s becoming a ubiquitous item. Which actually does make a lot of sense. Rillette falls right in line with New York’s obsession with old world techniques and peasant foods. Although pork and rabbit are popular choices, for me, duck rillette is at the top of the list hands down.

Jake Walk offers a smoky shredded duck version with just the right amount of duck fat to shredded duck ratio. It’s perfect for layering onto thin, crispy crostini, and then topping with grainy mustard and pickles. The sour flavors cut the richness and gives everything good balance.  Considering the time it takes to prepare/preserve a rillette and that most places have it priced at $11 to $16, this is pretty much a steal at $8. DSCN3836Venison Sausage Sandwich with Pickled Sweet Pepper Chutney, Tumeric Aioli and served with White Wine Braised Purple Onions. I am pretty sure they have the same venison sausage at the butchers down the street.

DSCN3841I thought the Tumeric Aoili was a clever touch. It added taste and a color boost.

DSCN3843

Basic interior shots…

DSCN3833DSCN3830

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